I first encountered this jig in the late 1990s. Back then they called it a templating fence of templating jig for the table saw. I made a version of it for one of my earlier saws and it worked great ... then I moved house ... twice, and lost that jig and even forgot about it until recently when I dug out one of my old patterns for a table I used to make ...
Watch it on Youtube: https://youtu.be/8TNLudKivbc
I know that the old table saw fence I made long ago is now gone, and anyway it wouldn't work on the table saw I purchased a few years ago, so time to make a new one.
My new design based on an upgraded fence on my more recent saw allows me to use magswitches for this jig ... a real bonus because it makes the jig easy put on and take off and it's VERY secure when it's on the saw.
If you do not have a Magswitch, I recommend the Magswitch 150 because of its extra holding power. You can purchase them from this link, and yes I do make a small commission from purchases (thank you for your support) BUT ... if you use this code, exactly as written COLIN_KNECHT YOU save 10%. (the discount code is added in the discount box, on the final page just before you place your order) Note: if you are outside the U.S.A. your purchase may be subject to duties and taxes as levied by your country, please check "Shipping FAQs" before ordering..
You can adjust these dimensions to fit your saw, what I am giving here are the dimensions that I used. Also, you may want to use a slightly wider "fence" than what I used or add it later, it pretty easy to change that part.
Wood Fence - 3/4 x 28 x 5
Upright Adjustment Support with Slots - 1/2" Baltic Birch 25" x 7"
Hanger Bolts - 2 x 5/16 (I felt 1/4" was a bit small for this job)
Anchor Supports - Oak (or other hardwood) 2" wide x 2.5" deep and 4" high
Table Saw Fence Board - 3/4" x 32" long x whatever fits your saw
Note: if you do not have a flat top fence similar to mine, drilling a couple of holes in either side of the Upright Adjustment Support and using clamps is another alternative way of attachment
I always get asked about the measuring blocks, they are available through the woodworkweb Amazon Page here .
Assemble as shown in the video
Using the Fence
The first thing to keep in mind, the table saw blade should never touch the L-Fence.
Start off by adjusting the height of the fence with a couple of thin (1/4" or slightly more) spacer blocks on top of the wood you will be cutting, then drop the L-Fence on the spacer blocks and secure the fence. Pull the spacer blocks out and double-check the height.
Next, adjust the table saw blade height to just slightly above the wood you are cutting by about a 1/16" - double-check to make sure the blade is not hitting the L-Fence.
This picture shows the anti-skid rubber between the wood being cut, which is under the L-Fence and the top template plywood
Adjust the L-Fence over the blade to a depth you determine.
Next, you need to have a perfectly straight push block for on top of the wood you will be cutting. It will be your template. If you are not comfortable using just your push block with some quality anti-skid material between the wood you are cutting and you push block, use screws or nails - that DO NOT penetrate wood and scratch or worse, hang up on your table saw top. Setting screws of nails from UNDERNEATH may be required.
Once you are comfortable that you have a safe working environment, that part of the wood you are cutting off is not wider than your L-Fence and your materials are secured and safe, now is when you can cut off that wood as you have set up.
The L-Fence is particularly useful if you need to cut angles on wood, or if you have wood with a ragged or live edge you need to clean up, the L-Fence does a quick, safe job of cutting off those edges. I can be used for rabbeting, cutting tenons or any other job where a template will help you do a quicker, safer and more accurate cut.
Copyright Colin Knecht