Woodworking Tools

Making Performance Table Saw - Part II

  If you haven't read Part I "Making a Performance Table Saw" of this series first, we recommend that you read that article as well because together these two articles complete this topic.

As a woodworker, you can only do so much upgrading of your table saw without spending some money. This article will tell you how to make your table saw really "sing", it may cost you a few dollars.

The real differnce in tuning up your table saw will be in the quality of your work and the reduced frustration by making sure your cuts are true, parallel and at right angles. It really make woodworking more fun and rewarding when things go together as they should, but click below to read more ...

 I will start with the least expensive and move up. If you have never heard of a Power Twist Link Belt, now might be the time to think about this upgrade ... but while you are at it, if you have some of those inexpensive aluminum pulleys between your motor and your table saw arbor, throw them out as well and get some balanced steel pulleys.

Between these two items, not only will your table saw run smoother, it will also cut better because there is less vibration and the connection between the motor and the arbor will be stronger thereby eliminating any slippage.

The reason this combination works so well is that the design of the Power Twist Link Belt is such that vibration between the motor and the saw=s arbor is minimized by the many individual links of the belt. This combined with "balanced" steel pulleys makes HUGE difference. Link belts are purchased by the foot so you actually make up the length you need exactly. These belts come in different sizes so make sure you check your pulley size before your purchase the belt, or purchase the belt and the pulleys together.

The next component to look at is the fence on your table saw. There are a variety of after market table saw fences, some I have used and some I haven=t so I can only recommend those I have used. If you can find yourself a Biesemeyer fence system, or equivalent, to fit your table saw you will not be disappointed. Lets face it, table saws are used most for ripping wood and if you don=t have a very good ripping fence on your saw two things will happen, either your work will suffer in quality (and you with the frustration), or, you will begin to abandon woodworking because your tools are frustrating the daylights out of you.

 From experience I can tell you there is no better feeling than putting a new fence on your saw, aligning it to the mitre slot, then test ripping a piece of wood and finding it come through perfectly the first time. It is an experience like this that gives one the courage to tackle bigger projects.

One of the biggest purchases you may need to make is a new motor for your table saw. From time to time I am cutting two inch oak, so any motor under 1.5hp is inadequate.

I decided to upgrade to a 2hp (110/240V ... motors that show this designation on their labels can be switched internally to run on either 110volt or 240volts) I had my electrician come over and install a couple of 240 plugs for me, switch over my motors (I could have done this myself, but since he was there and experience at doing this). The advantage of moving to 240 volt is the amperage drop you can get. At 110 volts the 2hp motor draws 20 amps, at 240 volts it only draws 9 amps. This means the motor will run MUCH cooler, thereby lasting much, much longer. Heat is the main enemy or motors (and saw blades).

I saved the best for last, and this could even be one of least expensive upgrades you can make to your table saw, and that is the blades. Notice I said BLADES ... as in more than one blade.


If you are doing more than cutting garden stakes and fence pickets you NEED to invest in some decent table saw blades. This one item alone separates the woodworkers from the woodhackers. You cannont buy one blade and expect it to do everything you need .. AND give you quality cuts with everything at the same time. You need to have proper blades in order to make quality cuts.

I make no apologies for preferring Freud Saw Blades (and router bits too). Freud make a wide variety of blades to choose from, they are excellent quality and they are a bargain in terms of long term ownership. I recommend that you purchase AT LEAST 3 different blades, namely a good, dedicated ripping blade, a good crosscut blade and general purpose or combination blade.

Ripping Blade - This should be a blade with only 20 to 30 teeth. If your saw is a bit underpowered I recommend a thin kerf. If you are using primarily three quarter inch stock (and not thicker than one inch) and you want blade that you won't even have to joint your wood after you have cut it on your tables saw, pick up one of Freud's "Glue Line Rip" blade they are everything they say!

Crosscut Blade - Even if you have a dedicated cross cut saw, you should still have a good cross cut blade for your table saw. Cross cut blades will normally have 60 to 80 teeth, such as the Freud Ultimate Cut Off blade , and generally the more teeth the better the cut (this also depends on the material you are cutting).

Combination Blade  -  You might be asking yourself, "why if I have dedicated blades would I need to bother with a combination blade"? The answer is this, sometimes you will be doing work that is less critical and you will want a blade that will do a decent job of both, that is what a combo blade is for, to save you time switching blades. The other time to use the combo blade is when you are cutting "questionable" wood. If you hit a nail or other foreign material, better to do this with a less expensive blade.

If you follow these tips, you will be able to cut wood and make projects like any pro. Remember the quality of the tool has no bearing on the quality of the work if the tool is out of alignment, or is improperly tuned. I have seen woodworkers make absolutely stunning projects with inexpensive, often "used" table saws, that have been properly outfitted. On the other hand, owning a lovely Delta Unisaw does not guarantee quality woodwork.

Copyright - Colin Knecht

The Work Sharp 2000 Review

 "The only reason I hate sharpening chisels or plane blades is because I don't know how to do it, and I never know what sharpening equipment to select to do the right job. The whole sharpening thing to me is complicated, confusing and frustrating. For these reasons I was very excited to try out one of the sharpening tools for myself to see what kind of a job it can do.

If you are like most woodworkers, or at least like me your plane blades and chisels are probably not in the best shape, probably not that sharp and as a consequence, not used as much as they should be because they are dull and hard to use.

 Right out of the box I liked the size. I don't have a big shop so smaller tools are more welcome. I decided I better read the manual as this might give some sort of an idea what I will be in for. The manual itself was short and concise and gave me good instruction on how the media (grinding or sanding disks) are applied to the wheels so as to avoid getting grit between the back of the disks and the wheel.
 The WorkSharp 2000

Unfortunately for our readers, I selected my worst chisel to try out the Work Sharp 2000 on, and never gave any thought to taking a "before" picture. I just wanted to try something out to get the feel of how it works. I couldn't believe how quickly my chisel was transformed from a beat up old scraper back to a precision wood chisel.

 The instruction manual says if your chisels are in really bad shape to start off with the 80 grit sanding disks, which is what I did. If you have a number of blades that need work, I recommend picking up some extra 80 grid disks. This will make your chore of getting these blades back into shape much quicker.

One trick I learned to see how much you are taking off with each grind is to mark the edge with a felt pen. This is a great way to measure your progress and to make sure the entire surface is getting ground and sharpened.






 The WorkSharp 2000










Here is the plane blade from much much cherished wooden plane getting sharpened.











Thats the kind of results I like to see !!! Unfortunately Internet posted pictures do not show the true sharpness that this Work Sharp WS2000 can deliver. I then tried some of my smaller plane blades and in no time they were back in excellent shape. The Work Sharp uses a sharpening port at the front of the tool as a guide to slide the blades upward to touch them against rotating underside of the wheel. I found these were good for touching up my cold chisels and punch chisels.





I like the idea that I was working well over top of the work being sharpened. Quite an innovative idea that also helps to control flying debris. The tool only has one fifth horsepower motor, which I discovered is actually good. The purpose of the slotted wheels and slotted grinding media is because when you are sharpening from below you can actually see through the spinning slots and watch the metal being ground down ... a very cool concept.

Most of us have the old "shop standard" the half, three quarter or even one horsepower grinder and are used to grinding the living daylights out of everything because there is lots of horsepower there. These big grinders are OK for some jobs but for fine work they can very easily take off too much material, at the wrong angle, not to mention heating the tips up too quickly and changing the composition of blade metal.

When using the Work Sharp 2000 tool it is suggested to "plunge" the chisel against the grinding disk a for only a half second at a time. This is sufficient to grind material off but not enough to get the blades heated up and change the tempering. A very important consideration and it works amazingly well thanks in part to the technology of the composite grinding disks.

After using the Work Sharp 2000 for a while, I found myself looking for more things I could sharpen. I just couldn't believe it was so simple and so effective to sharpen tools. If you are one of the fortunate few who know how to sharpen chisels and blades and maybe you even have Tormek grinding system then you are in good shape. If on the other hand you simply want sharp tools again and don't have the time, energy or need to understand all there is to know about sharpening ... then the Work Sharp 2000 is for you. If you want to take a little step higher and get an even better Work Sharp 2000 tool with even more features we highly recommend the Work Sharp 3000. It is still very reasonably priced but even more versatile.




worksharp 2000


Copyright Colin Knecht


Incra Mitre Gauge V27

Save time, wood, and most of all frustration with the exciting new Incra AngleLock System. Most woodworkers use their table saws for ripping and
cross cutting. Many of the mitre gauges that are supplied with table saws
do not have the features and ease of use required by modern woodworkers.
The Incra V27 is an outstanding value that will make your cross cutting
accurate and easy with it's abundance of features."

To read the full article on The Incra V27, click "read more" below for the full article


Incra has taken the best core features of their premium precision miter gauges and engineered them into an affordable "everyday" miter gauge. Combining the exclusive AngleLock system with the patented GlideLock miter barassures that this incredible accuracy shows in every cut you make.

Gauge has 27 laser cut presets for perfect angles in 5 degree increments over a full 120 degree range, special stops at 22-1/2 degrees, and a continuous slot to set any angle in between.Use it in any standard 3/4"x3/8" miter slot, from your table saw to your router table, band saw, disk or belt sander.universal mounting slots on the verticle face of the gauge make it easy to attach auxiliary fences or jigs. Steel miter bar and gauge head.

Made in the USA!

How to use Blade Stabilizers

 For years many of the table saw blade manufacturers have been preaching that we should be using blade stabilizers on our table saw blades in order to get precision cuts. But what about the costs, the draw backs, and do we really need these?? Read on for the answer, you could be very surprised at what you will find ...

First of all, blade stabilizers are not particularly cheap. If you get a good pair that has been balanced and trued, expect to pay in the vicinity of $20. True, they do cut down on blade vibration on some blades but what has caused that blade vibration in the first place? Is this a result of an inferior saw blade, OR, have you inadvertently jammed some wood between the blade and the fence and bent the blade yourself? In either case, you have a blade that is off true, for situations like this blade stabilizers may be helpful.

But what about depth of the cut you can make, don't they restrict depth of cut? The answer is yes, they do, which is one of their major draw backs. Another major draw back is the extra weight they are putting on your equipment like motors, bearings and belts. The extra weight in some cases may in fact cause early wear out of motors or bearing.
So ... lets stop for a moment and re-visit wobbly saw blades. Back to the original question, why is the saw blade off true. You would think in this day and age we could make table saw blades that were true ... and we can. Table saw blades just like anything else you purchase reflect the quality price differential. If you are purchasing inexpensive blades you can bet that less time and effort has gone into making them. And what about the manufacturing of the blades, most blades are "stamped" out of steel, don't you think that might just be a cause of making them un-true. Freud is one of the only manufactures that not only laser cuts the steel, but also performs "tensioning" on each blade, which make each one exactly true. The reason they do this is because the steel they use for their blades is a harder steel that what you can use on a "stamped" blade. The result of Freud laser cutting the blades, and cutting in things like heat expansion slots and anti vibration slots in most of their blades is what makes them very stable. Freud blades do not need blade stabilizers.

Another cause of blades runing un-true is the arbor in the saw, is it running true and is the bearing in good shape or is this the cause of your blade-wobble.

Copyright Colin Knecht

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