I have only broken 3 bandsaw blades in my lifetime so haven't had much opportunity to fix them, but I decided to make an exception in this case because the blade I had was still quite new and still very sharp to it was a good chance to see if I could be fixed the blade which snapped at the weld joint. These smaller blades for my little 12 inch Delta bandsaw which doesn't use a lot of tension on the blade so I think I have a pretty fair chance of getting this to work.
I know many of the bandsaw blades appear to be spot welded together and I don't happen to own a spot welder by I have read of people who have solder the ends together with good results, so that is what I am going to try.
I love it when you can get even more usage from a tool with some slight modifications ... in fact, this tool mod gave me TONS more use from my hand held belt sander that I would have ever got from it as a hand-held unit. This little conversion is known and it's a great way of getting so much more from a belt sander.
To start off with, you will need a hand held belt sander with accessory bolt holes in the top. Not all belt sanders have these, in fact, most of the new sander does not have these accessory holes, but check because they may have some other options that would do the same job, or could attach them with a different system that might not be as easy, but equally effective in the end. Others may have some other form of attachment but the bolt attachment works well and is easy to work with.
Like many things in woodworking, there are many different ways of making things and cabinet doors are no different. The nice thing about using the router and router table to make cabinet doors is you can make as many or as few as you like. You can make production runs or just one door. Either way, the setup is identical and the results are consistent. The first time I was shown how to make doors on the router table I couldn't believe it was so easy ...
I have never had a chance to use a finger joint bit on the router, and since I picked one up some time ago, I would like to know how it works. It was on special at a tool store I deal with and being sold "as is" because the box was open and of course there were no instructions with it, and I don't even know if it even comes with instructions, or like most router bits you figure it out on your own. The one I got was the Freud Finger joint #99-037 I had it in my mind that this must be a simple bit to use so my first idea was to have 2 pieces of wood of exactly the same width and run them through the bit one face up, the other face down and see what that would do.
Well ... as it turns out, nope, that wasn't how this bit worked, then I wondered if it was the height that I had the bit at, maybe that had something to do with it so I raised the bit slightly to expose more of the base ...
The nice folks at GearBest.com got in touch with to see if I was interested in reviewing one of their 3D printers. I thanked the but told them 3D printers were not really woodworking machines. They then told me they have a "wood" type filamentavailable. At that point, I thought ... how do I know a 3D printer is not a woodworking tool, I've never tried one, maybe there are some things it can be used for and maybe I should try this, and so sometime later this 3D Printer arrived. By the way, you can click any of the Bold Links on this page to see what I am talking about, and you won't lose your spot here.
The Creality CR-10 printer comes in a fairly large box, which to me was a good thing, because it told me that it wasn't going to be a bunch of parts and pieces I had to figure out how to put together, and sure enough, there are of course some components that need to be set up, but it is substantially together when it arrives. I also received a roll of the Wood Filament for the printer but also took some time to investigate what other 3D printer options that are available, always good to know what other things might be needed some time.
3d Printer Wood Filament
Of course, it took some time to unpack and set up the printer and to connect it with a computer and set up the app that communicates what the printer will be making, but that's all part of the fun of getting into new things. >>>> Link to Woodworkweb Amazon Affiliate Store - https://www.amazon.com/shop/woodworkweb <<<<
It been many years since I used a cordless circular saw, I even remember the first one I ever used. I needed to cut a 12 inch strip off the long side of a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4" inch plywood at a wood show. I had borrowed a saw that the vendor told me had a full charge and I remember hoping the saw would finish the cut for me as I edged closer and closer to the end of the plywood sheet. It did finish the cut, but only barely. Roll forward some 15 plus years and wow, things have changed and now I get to a second chance to work with a cordless circular saw. One of the big differences in recent years is the Lithium batteries that are so much better in than the old NiCad batteries. More power, longer charge, quicker charges, no memory etc. Battery improvements along with all the other technological improvements have allowed manufacturers to create whole suites of top quality and top performing tools that will easily rival power and durability of corded tools.
When I first picked up and tried the Makita Cordless Circular saw, it struck me instantly just how much better this tool was than than the first generation of cordless circ saws. I was doing a test cut through construction 2x5 stud. The balance of the saw was comfortable, when I started it up, it didn't "jerk" in my hand as I started the cut and when cutting the wood, it didn't bog down, but powered through like any corded saw would do. On closer examination, here's some of the features I found ...