I will take a look at my gouge and let you know the approximate angles involved, though I tend to work on the basis of 'this feels right' and as I work in a very technical environment in my day-job is one of the reasons I find turning soooo appealing.

Whilst there is a difference in angles the main issue is whether the bevel of the tool is allowed to rub on the work. Scrapers do NOT rub the bevel and are used below centre (tool handle up) to avoid dig-in (catch), gouges do rub the bevel and are used above centre (tool handle down).

Scrapers are not ground to 90 deg (flush?). They actually cut using a burr raised on the cutting edge by burnishing aginst a hard steel. I use an old but quality screwdriver shank rather than spend out on expensive burnishers.

Hope it helps....

STH

Hi again,
thought I'd add my tupenny's worth.. STH writes "though I tend to work on the basis of 'this feels right' " which is I think how most turners work, might be good or .. bad; but we all develop our own styles.. after all we're all different - heights , stance etc & I bet that most turners have developed they're own sharpening styles and angles to their own needs. I myself sharpen by eye on a typical grinding wheel setup.. a long fingernail tip for a deep fluted bowl gouge and a short 75 degree(ish) edge on the wider rapid stock removing gouges. Just like you would sharpen general carpentry chisels.. the thinner the chisel(gouge) the longer the bevel is ground. Unlike the chisels though the gouge is presented to the workpiece very differently. To start off have the top of your tool rest at dead centre height. Carefully (especially if the surface to be cut is initially uneven) with the gouge resting almost on its side (right hand on the handle, left hand maintaining control of the gouge on the tool rest) bring the heel of the bevel into contact with the workpiece. If this is done correctly thus far there's absolutely no chance of the gouge digging in.. all that's happening is that the heel is rubbing the workpiece. Ok so now carefully and mainting control of the tip at the tool rest, move the angle of the gouge in relation to the workpiece so that the whole of the back of the bevel is now rubbing against it. Again this is completely safe if done correctly because the gouge is almost on its side with the cutting edge curved upwards and away from the workpiece. So now you're ready to begin cutting.. slowly and whilst pushing the gouge in the direction you're hollowing out, rotate the gouge so that the upwards edge of the tip rotates into the work and produces a very thin (very thin) shaving. that is if your gouge is sharp, you'll know if it's not because you'll be producing dust rather than shavings. Continue that way until you're confident you have it right and then you'll be able to alter the rotation of the gouge to remove larger shavings.
I mentioned scraping in my prior posting.. really it's a case of horses for courses. Shaving is easier (the reverse of using the gouge.. dragging the scraper towards you along the workpiece to remove stock) although you'll never achieve as fine a finish with a scraper so be prepared with loads of abrasive paper! I have to say though that in the end the result is the same.
Blimey.. I hope you followed all that Colin.. would have been easier to draw a picture I think!
Regards,
Dave

There must be as many different grinds as there are turners... if it works well for u then it's right! That said it's good to be able to grind and regrind to a consistent bevel (whatever angle), no I'm not advocating buying expensive grinding jigs 'cos there are many 'shop' jigs that will do the job.
I'd luv to fuel the gouge v scraper discussion ... no it'd take too long... I use both together with power sanding if neceessary. The important part is the finished article however achieved... having made the change from hobby to profession, time is money.
Ever tried working from the centre (center :wink:) to the edge with the flute on the gouge facing u... if u haven't and u do, take extreme care... keep the bottom edge of the flute almost horizontal... the more upward facing it is, the more aggressive the cut. it is superb for removing material when controoled correctly... it will also give a shear cut (not a scrape!) if used with finesse.
Rest height is another contentious area. Personally I find that with a gouge the rest is set below centre to allow the cutting edge to reach the centre. When scraping I prefer the rest about a cm above centre... helps to remind that scrapers should be presented 'trailing' i.e. blade down, handle up.
Graham

just a little tip...
when you're hollowing out a piece, particularly undercutting a rim, it can quickly clog up with shavings.. I use old toothbrushes.. the ones with flexible necks are great to clear the shavings out.

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It is great for doing the inside & outside of a bowl.

The carbide can be removed and placed on a 6" DMT fine sharpening stone and be re-honed using WD-40

You can also use the following



just make shure when you order from Dennis that the bit is the 5% Cobalt cutter