OK ... I'm back with you again ...
Yes, with my rough lumber, depending on how warped or bowed it is, there are 3 things I might do.
1 - if it's narrow enough to run through my jointer, I will joint one face edge first, then one side edge, and that will give me 2 perfect sides that are 90 degrees. This is what I prefer to do, but not always possible.
2 - if it's too wide for jointer, draw a line through the board to make if fit the jointer, and cut with the bandsaw, then do the above.
3 - Snap a line with a chalk line from one end to another close to one edge, if it's not warped or bowed too much, then cut that line with my big bandsaw (or with the circ saw) THEN, take that board with the one straight edge and run it through my table saw to get one very flat edge (might need to do this 2 or 3 times, depending on the board, but only very slight cuts each time, just taking a skim off the side) you might even need to flip the board once to get 1 side that is perfectly straight.
I do number three when the boards are not too long to handle. If the boards are long and I need them long I will try to use the circ saw.
Ok, so if it is a pretty rough edge and too wide to go on the jointer (like the one in your video), you pop a chalk line down the board as close to the edge as possible taking out any bows, etc... then free hand it through the band saw. That should give you a straight enough edge to start with on the jointer. I still need some practice free handing on the band saw but I should be able to make a straight enough edge to run through the jointer.
You will figure out the freehanding pretty quickly, I forgot to mention that most of my rough wood is at least 2" thick so it's harder to manage in that it's heavier etc. so that also has a bit of bearing.
ONE MORE THING ... in another part of these forums is someone working at making a table top and trying to get his boards straight for glueing. One of our members posted a video for another type of table saw jig to help with this. I have seen the jig before but have not built one, I think I am going to add it to my list. Apparently they work quite well ...
I think you are subscribed to the topic ... it's How to joint a wood table top
scroll down to the bottom and you will see the video that was posted.
It's yet another way to do what you are looking at.
Yeah, I saw that post earlier today. Pretty good idea. I have seen a similar technique before but not with a nice jig like the one in the video.
One more question, I have heard that, for ripping and resawing, you want to use the widest blade your band saw will take. I know that you can't use a small blade but, wouldn't a 3/4 to 1 inch be adequate and what about the tpi?
I am iced in here at the house so I have plenty of time to think up all kinds of questions.
Glepperd replied the topic: Prepping rough cut wood
Ripper, The jig I made to prep rough cut wood is a bit more simple than the one in Izzy Swans video (I posted the link on the table top forum discussion). I just joined two boards to form an 'L' I place the concave side of the rough timber against the jig to obtain a straight edge using a table saw - but no reason why a band saw wouldn't work. This gives you an edge to work off to square the other edge and then of course provides a more stable edge in case you want to re-saw. The problem with Izzy's jig is that it holds the wood roughly 3/4" off the table which means your depth of cut is reduced, also there is a tendency for the drag of the blade to cause the unsupported edge to dip slightly causing the sawn edge to vary from 90 degrees/