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(Left: Paul Dalcanale and Colin Knecht, Creators of Woodworkweb)
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"My interest in woodworking began during my graduate student years. As an avid music listener and musician, I was inspired to try my hand at making some percussion instruments“ both copies of ˜real' instruments and some that were experimental."
To read the full article on Art Liestman and see images of his project, click "read more" below for the full article Read more...
- Created on Thursday, 27 June 2013 20:58
- Hits: 1977
There is something rewarding about taking rough lumber and turning it into fine furniture, especially if it is a design you love to make. Such is the case with this little side table, in the Arts and Crafts (A&C) style of furniture. I thought about all the furniture that I love to make and discovered that there are a number of types and styles, starting with the A&C style of furniture. I am a big fan of William Morris, designer of course of the Morris Chair, Gustav Stickely, Harvey Ellis, Greene and Greene and others, but I am also a big fan of Thomas Molesworth who made a very unique type of furniture in the mid-west. All of these people contributed greatly to styles and types of furniture we have today, and they influenced generations of woodworkers.
This little side table is a simple design, and like most woodworkers, I have adapted some of my own wrinkles to, by combining, in a way, the styles of Havery Ellis and Thomas Molesworth. The carcass of the table is recognisable as a typical A&C table, but the top boasts a natural edge rather than a sawn, planed and finished edge. I also like the height and size of the table, all of which was designed using a Fibonacci Gauge in order to get pleasing lines and dimensions.
But there is a lot more than simply building a piece of furniture. It needs to be finished AND with this piece ti has a natural edge top, so what do we do for edge treatment for the top ... click below to see the following videos ...
- Created on Thursday, 09 May 2013 21:36
- Hits: 3772
An original version Adirondack chairs as we know it was first designed in 1903 by Thomas Lee. In Canada the chair is sometimes referred to as a Muskoka Chair. The Chair that Thomas Lee designed, he asked a local carpenter to make for him. Apparently the carpenter, Harry Bunnell could see it was great design, so Bunnell filed for, and was granted a patent for the chair, without the permission of Lee. Bunnell then went on to manufactured the chairs under his name for the next 20 years.
The original chair design has been so good it has stood the test of time and over a hundred years later, woodworkers are still making a variety of Adirondack type chairs.
What always amazes me is just how comfortable this chair can be. Now make no mistake, not all Adirondack chairs are comfortable and to a degree it does depend on your body type how well you fit the chair. The features that really make this chair comfortable are the coved back and the scooped seat along with the position of the wide arms. All of which combine into making a great, comfortable out door chair.
The plans we used are the widely published plans from Fine Woodworking Magazine and they even publish the plans on their website, we provide that link at the end of this article, and the reason we did that is so if you DO decide to make this great chair you will have at least scanned the article and give you a few heads-up ideas that we encountered.
- Created on Friday, 19 April 2013 00:22
- Hits: 9957
Woodworking often seems to be about building or making something to do a job you need done, but don't have the tool for. I would love to have a 20 or 24 inch planer, or 24 inch belt sander, unfortunately I would use either so seldom it would not be a cost effective purchase.
So, when I need to plane a board that is too thick, if it is larger than my 15 inch planer, I have to devise another way of planing the board down. There are a few options, you can find a local woodworking shop to plane or sand the board down (for a price), or you can use a hand plane (which is very tedious if it is a large board), you can take the fence of many jointers and make multiple passes, but then you have re-install the fence and adjust it, you could use a hand power planer (but they can gouge the wood if you are not careful) and the last option ... which is the one I opted for is to make a planing jig or planing sled that I can use my router on.
These jigs are not new and have been around in one form or another for years. I you purchase rough sawn lumber from local mills or suppliers, this is something that will be a Must Have in your workshop. Or if you don't have a planer of any size, this allow you to plane and re-surface boards in fairly short order, and do a great job of it.
- Created on Sunday, 07 April 2013 05:15
- Hits: 6564
Yes I know it's been quite a while since we had our last contest, so here goes with another contest for all our YouTube and Woodworkweb subscribers. This contest is really easy to enter, all we ask is that you comment on what you would like to see us do in the future for woodworking videos. If you are watching the videos through woodworkweb, to get to our YouTube channel where you can make the comments, once the video starts playing, just click on the YouTube icon at the bottom of the screen and you will be taken to our channel where you can comment underneath the video.
We have a couple of great prizes this time, and the winner of the contest will win BOTH items. The first is a Right-Hand Tape. I know, this sounds a bit boring but once you have watched the video you will see how for some of us, being able to read the numbers on a tape right-side-up can make the difference between making a correct measurement or not. The old rule of measure twice and cut once doesn't always work and it always made me think, there must be a better way, and sure enough there is, get a tape where the numbers are right-side-up when you read it. For all of you who are left handed, almost all the tapes produced are left-hand tapes, so all of you are already in great shape in that area, but enter the contest anyway, if you win, give the tape to a Righty and you will have a friend for life!!
The second item is a Veritas Workshop Striking Knife. This is a newly released striking knife and many people who hand cut dovetails prefer these kinds of knives for marking their pins and tails. The knife is very well made (hey, it's a Veritas) and with proper looking after, should last a long time and is easy to re-sharpen when needed.
SO !! ... Take a moment to tell US the kinds of things you would like to see for videos in the future, and one of you will be the lucky winner of the striking knife and tape measure.
Thanks in advance for participating
Copyright - Colin Knecht
- Created on Monday, 01 April 2013 22:59
- Hits: 2852
The next step after understand HOW veneering works, is to try it, and in this video, that's what we have done. To show a bit more about what veneering is all about we actually too three bookmatched sheets of veneers and attached them with veneering tape. The process is quite simple, but being able to watch a video of it being done is much easier than try to explain it.
After attaching the sheets and preparing a back sheet as well (all veneering works best when veneering is done on BOTH sides of the substrate). The next step is simple, coat ALL sides to be glues together with a coating of veneer glue. All glues have what is called an Open Time, which simply means how long the glue can be exposed to air before it starts to dry out. With veneering glue the open time (depending on brand) is normally around 15 - 20 minutes, unless you are working in a dry, hot environment, then it is substantially reduced. All this means is that when you are working with glues, you need work steady, with no lag times.
Once one side of the substrate is covered with glue and the matching veneer as well, they are simply bonded together and it is best now to roll the veneer to make sure no air bubbles are showing.