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Table saw alignment

  • bcscustomwood
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bcscustomwood created the topic: Table saw alignment

I have one of the Ridgid table saws, and use it regularly.
The thing is driving me nuts keeping it in alignment.

I'm not a newbie when it comes to equipment or maintaining it.
I use a dial guage 1st then check it then old fashioned way with a tri square.
I have a bar I clamp on (that replaces the saw blade) to do my checks. I dont trust a saw blade I've had to many that were out by .010 or .015.

I get the thing to within .002 and the next month its out of alignment again.

One other cruel thing is when I get the fence lined up I get bad blade burn on the fence side.
I dont line the fence up parallel either, I like the leading edge to be at least .003 away from the blade.

Any suggestions, tips or hints that I might try. Short of buying the Powermatic I've lusted after.

I have found this Ridgid brand to be lacking for heavy daily use.
The only good thing I have found is the tighter threads on the trunions, at least the blade doesnt vibrate up or down when cutting.
#1
  • ronbill
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ronbill replied the topic: Re: Table saw alignment

I'm far from an expert but I have had some luck aligning my saw. A possibility you may consider for the alignment going out (Just how much is it going out by the way?) is if your blade is out as much as you say it may be wobbling just enough to knock it out of adjustment. I have found that blade stabilizers and a high quality blade make all the difference in the world. A Forrest blade solved all of my problems.

And oh yea, try adjusting the fence with the .003 on the far side of the blade. I bet it will help your burning problem.

Hope this helps a little.

Ron….
#2
  • bcscustomwood
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bcscustomwood replied the topic: Re: Table saw alignment

Whats the difference between far side and leading edge?
I'll rephrase. I goofed.

My fence is further away from the blade on the far side of the cut. If I had it the other way I'd be pinching the stock and yeah that sure would cause blade burns.

I have a Forrest 2.
Like it yes, is it worth the money. (??)
I'll probably wont buy another one, when I cant have it resharpened any more.

I bought a stabilizer from Forrest with my blade thinking it would be top notch.

I went back to my cheap set of stabilizers from Woodcraft, they were more true.

Like I said I've tried about everything imaginable.
I'm beginging to think its time to sell the goofy table saw. :cry:
#3
  • ronbill
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ronbill replied the topic: Re: Table saw alignment

Sounds like you are way ahead of me :oops: . Sorry I couldn't be of any help. What kind of wood burns for you, or is it all wood? I still have a little trouble with cherry and hard maple but I guess almost everybody does. Everything else seems to be okay but I do have to realign it every so often. I just do it by the book. I tried a digital micrometer but discovered a plane carpenters square worked just as well if not better.

Well, at least you have a good reason to upgrade :) .

Happy Holiday :D !

Ron….
#4
  • bcscustomwood
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bcscustomwood replied the topic: Re: Table saw alignment

I did learn a new trick, or old trick.

I've always used the "top coat" and the "dri coat".

When I started having blade burn I sprayed the dri coat on the blade teeth more often. It helps, it also helps when the time comes to clean the saw blade. The build up isnt so thick.

My dad always said you get what you pay for.
If I had bought a good cabinet grade saw to begin with I probably wouldnt be conversing about my stupid table saw right now.

Maybe I'm to picky. I'm so used to making things at work that have to be within a tight tolerance that I want everything else the same way. :idea:
#5
  • BlockHead8080
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BlockHead8080 replied the topic: Re: Table saw alignment

Hey,
Forrest makes great saws! My father uses them all of the time! I found this website www.sliversmill.com . There prices are inexpensive and turn around time on orders is quick. I just bought one for my dad for Christmas- Woodworker II 10' only $88.75 and Chop Master 10" $109.75
Best!
#6

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