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  • arnold replied to the topic 'Joining Table Legs and Getting Them Straight' in the forum.
    i like your tables they are in keeping with the curent furniture trends. the legs are nice and big so they will be a bit heavy as well which means you will need to fasten them down good. i think if i were doing this i would try to make my table skirts a bit wider, that will give you more stability in the legs. i would agree that mortise and tennen is the best way, dowels will not be strong enough nor do i think floating tennens will be strong enough for this job. the only other thing to look at is iron hardware but im not sure what is out there in the market these days but look at lee valley they have some good hardware for these things.
    very nice tables brownbookkate
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    14 hours 56 minutes ago
  • brownbookkat created a new topic ' Joining Table Legs and Getting Them Straight' in the forum.
    Hi Friends -
    I'm new to wood working, and to this website but am thankful for all I've started to learn from Colin and the others on the forum. As a hobby I've started making tables; I made one from oak (like Home Depot quality), one from reclaimed lumber (pine) and one from reclaimed lumber, oak & poplar. With each of my tables, I'm running into a consistent problem; the legs are square/straight when I glue them, and I have used metal L brackets to attach them, but somehow, at the end of the project, I'm still getting legs that are not 100% square, either they're leaning inward or outward. It's quite frustrating - I've been suggested to try a mortise and tenon joint, which I have never done but I've watched a lot of videos on how to (using a chisel and a marking tool). Is this what most of you would recommend? I'd love any advice you can offer. I will also post some pics of my tables in case that's helpful.
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    19 hours 34 minutes ago
  • brownbookkat uploaded a new avatar
    19 hours 51 minutes ago
  • huevito71 uploaded a new avatar
    21 hours 53 minutes ago
  • GiddyUp994 replied to the topic 'Sharpening a Bandsaw Blade 14" - 16"' in the forum.
    LOL Hi Colin,
    I re-sawed a scrap piece of 6/4" of Walnut this afternoon just to see what the cutting was like and it zipped right through it. S far, so good. I am waiting on some Purple Heart and Cherry to get here for cutting boards and once I get at processing the boards for them I will have the chance to test the saw again. LOL Oh the drama...
    Your invitation to sharpen some of your saws is greatly appreciated and I know you are just trying expand my tool maintenance horizons but I must respectfully decline your offer. I'll leave it at that.

    :whistle:

    Cheers Colin,

    Derek
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    4 days ago
  • I'm just a beginner but really want to excel
    5 days ago
  • mr7872603 thanks user 'Colin' in the forum message ' self-adhesive sandpaper'.
    5 days ago
  • Colin replied to the topic 'Question AboutZero Clearance Inserts for Table Saw' in the forum.
    Hey ... no problem Kent, happy to help out. You know, it's great questions like this that helps other people learn too so never stop asking questions. We'll find an answer for your somewhere :)

    Thanks Buddy

    Colin
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    6 days ago
  • cthusker uploaded a new avatar
    6 days ago
  • kentb created a new topic ' Question AboutZero Clearance Inserts for Table Saw' in the forum.
    I'm brand new to woodworking and just purchased my first table saw, it actually hasn't arrive yet but should be here any day. I plan on making a zero clearance insert for it but was wondering about something. Why aren't they standard issue when buying a new saw? It seems like everybody always talks about either purchasing or making one so why is it they all seem to come with a "standard" throat plate instead of a zero clearance plate? Thanks.
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    less than a minute ago
  • creddy uploaded a new avatar
    1 week ago
  • GiddyUp994 replied to the topic 'self-adhesive sandpaper' in the forum.
    Hi Gents,

    just as Colin said for the glue. The Elmers Glue is half the price of the 3M 77 and for your sand paper, I get all of mine from an Auto Parts Company. The higher grits, 320 to 3500 are 3M paper which is an excellent grade of sand paper. I'm going to guess that you want this for sharpening your chisels and plane irons and if so, this line of paper is very affordable and what I would recommend. I use the Scary Sharp process for all of my edged tools and I am extremely happy with the results.
    Cheers,

    Derek
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    2 weeks ago
  • mr7872603 created a new topic ' self-adhesive sandpaper' in the forum.
    Anyone know where to get self-adhesive paper in grits from course(180) through really fine: 1000,1200 and up?
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    2 weeks ago