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TedduToit uploaded a new avatar20 hours 17 minutes ago
firstname.lastname@example.org uploaded a new avatar2 days ago
DallonsS uploaded a new avatar3 days ago
iceman7006 uploaded a new avatar1 week ago
I make tables and when attaching aprons I use over-sized holes to allow for expansion and contraction (to allow the screws some room to move). The "pros" always recommend using "slotted" or elongated holes. I would love to do that. But I do not have any tool that seems suitable to create slotted holes. What is the best way (and best tool) to make slotted holes for this application? Thanks for any help.
P.S. I though about using a straight router bit. But I do not have a router table (and cannot afford one right now) to enable me to ensure straight slots on the apron attachments.
Read More...1 week ago
Just getting started in woodworking2 weeks ago
Good catch Colin. I had that thought while I was putting this together but lost the point somewhere along the way. My bad.
Chaplain Doug, yes parallel and 8 to 10 inches away as a start. Practice on some scrap first and sweep back and forth very quickly and watch the effect on the finish. What you are trying to achieve is to heat the air inside the bubble and cause it to expand to the point where it breaks. You will see the heat from the torch sweep across the finish and as soon as the bubble breaks remove the heat immediately.
Anytime I am forced to use this method, I always give the surfaces a light sanding after the cure and apply a very thin finishing coat. I never allow the final coat of finish to be one that I had to flame except for a Two Part Epoxy finish which sets up and cures very slowly.
Read More...2 weeks ago
Welcome!2 weeks ago
It's snowing outside in Colorado and there's nothing better than woodworking in it!3 weeks ago
I am down to the final step of finishing a hard maple table. I posted here about an issue I had with the original stain being blotchy. I sanded down to nearly bare wood and washed repeatedly with acetone to remove the binder from the original stain. I stained it with a solvent-based stain (one that just lies on the surface of the wood basically, and the stain took. Since the stain would have brushed off had I brushed on Minwax water-based polycrylic, I sprayed on two thin coats of the aerosol version of the same water-based polycrylic. This indicated that if you did not recoat within 90 minutes, then you had to let it dry for at least 72 hours. Unfortunately, I only waited 48 hours before sanding and brushing on the Minwax water-based polycrylic. I noticed some small bubbles in this coat, contacted Minwax, and they said to wait another 24 hours before sanding and trying another coat. Every coat since has had lots of bumps/bubbles in it (see photo below)! I have now sanded and recoated twice and the same result. Any ideas of how I can get a nice bump-free/bubble-free final coat?
I am using the same polycrylic, brush type, and application technique I have used on a dozen tables that came out like glass! Help! God bless.
Read More...3 weeks ago