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choices in woodworking magazines is one of the most personalized aspects of the woodworker world. I choose magazines that have Articles which pic my interest such as fine furniture, techniques which will enhance my skill sets and jigs that allow me to accomplish specific tasks or would add an improvement to my shop. I do not subscribe to any woodworking magazine. I take a few moments at a magazine rack and if something interests me, I buy it if I know I can make good use of it.
Your choices are two magazines which I have subscribed to for many years long ago but after awhile I found them to be repetitive in their topics and I basically out grew them. As an example, lets take articles on a cross cut sled. How many minute variations of "The Ultimate Cross Cut Sled" can there possibly be for this simple jig ? Yes it can take many forms but to see four different magazines beating on the same dead horse proclaiming the same thing is something I took notice of and it turned me off most magazines as far as subscriptions are concerned.
Your choices are good ones and as long as you are learning something from them they are probably worth the subscription cost. My view is to cherry pick the magazine(s) available to you which have projects and techniques that you like to build. They all have their pros and cons. They also have a lot of my hard earned money. LOL There is no "one" magazine that fills my needs but that is not to say this applies to you. This is something all woodworkers struggle with at some point. Just enjoy yourself.
Hi everyone. I'm new to serious woodworking although I have dabbled in it all my life. I have a question about magazines. I subscribe to Woodsmith and Shopnotes because they don't have any advertising, just good woodworking info. What do the rest of you subscribe to or recommend? I get advertisements from other magazines but I can't afford to get them all. So was wondering if there any exceptionally good ones out there. Thanks for any advice available.
lots too learn...4 days ago
dlmalo uploaded a new avatar4 days ago
Normally I do not use a prestain conditioner on oak or walnut. However, I do use it on pine, as pine gets blotchy with stain without the prestain conditioner. This is the first poplar wood table I have made. The wood seems pretty porous. Is prestain conditioner a good idea for poplar?
Read More...4 days ago
I make tables and use hanger bolts to attach legs. On the lighter tables (3/4" pine for instance) I have been using two 1/4" hanger bolts to attach each leg. On the larger or heavier tables (1"+ thick pine or oak, etc.) I use 3/8" hanger bolts. On those too I have been putting two hanger bolts for each leg.
I just made a bench from 1"+ poplar and used just one 3/8" hanger bolt for each leg. it seems to be sufficient. However, the legs are only 17" long and so there is less torque on the hangar bolt.
My question. Would a single 3/8" hanger bolt suffice for tables with say 3" square legs 29" long? Or is it safer and sounder to continue to use two bolts?
I have attached a photo of the corner brackets I use on all table and some benches. The hanger bolts are configured vertically (when I use two), about 1.5" apart.
[File Attachment: IMAG0431.jpg]
Read More...4 days ago
In my opinion, splines are helpful when it comes to lining up the boards when gluing them up. It helps prevent them from shifting upwards or downwards resulting in less work when it's time to cleaning them up.
It could be a little stronger because you are adding a little more long-grain to
long-grain glue surface with the biscuits. However, just edge gluing them is still very strong.
Like Colin said, it really depends on your situation and what works the best for you. A couple things to consider would be:
1: Are you willing to put in more work
- Marking out all the slots for the biscuits
- Then cutting out the slots
- Then gluing the biscuits into the slots (making sure you don't put 2 biscuits in the same slots )
2: Or you can save time by
- Not using the biscuits
- Spreading glue over all the edges of the boards
- Clamping them up
- But you will be fighting the boards from shifting up or down
It all depends on what effort you are willing to put into it and what you are comfortable doing. Either one of these options will still give you a good table top though.
Read More...6 days ago
Quite some time ago I asked here whether it is recommended to put a spline between each board in a table top when gluing up. The consensus them was that just gluing the boards edge to edge will provide a sufficiently strong joint and splining is not necessary (overkill). I recently had another furniture maker say that in Virginia's climate it is best to put splines. So I am confused again. I have made and sold a dozen tables (pine, oak, walnut) with just gluing the edges. I guess I am looking for confirmation that I am doing the right thing.
Read More...6 days ago
Thank you so much Derek for a thorough and thoughtful (and gracious) response. I find myself "doing time" over defects (real or perceived) in most of my projects. I am a perfectionist in recovery.
After so many responding that I should not use the slightly twisted boards, I asked the mill for two replacements. However, in the mean time, I glued them into the top just to see if they would straighten out if placed between two straight boards. That does not really work. So I am cutting them out and replacing them.
By the way, the master wood worker who trained me gave the same advice as you, i.e., putting the boards on the outside.
Again, thank you and God bless you for taking time to answer.
Also, thanks to all the other responders. It is great having help!
Read More...6 days ago
Life is Greatless than a minute ago
I use Lestoil or Pine-Soil. Lay the saw blade in the cover of a 5 gal. bkt to soak for a few minutes (~5), then a light brushing with an old tooth brush under hot water does a great job.
Also from a friend of mine:
"I just read an article in a Woodsmith publication that rated saw blade and router bit cleaners. The blades had a pretty hefty build up of resin on the shoulders and gullets.
The results were in order....
Lestoil. It took only 5 minutes for 7 oz of Lestoil with no effort to completely clean the blade.
Extreme Simple Green. It took 15 minutes for 16oz. with no effort to clean the blade. (regular simple green attacks the carbide. do not use)
Rockler Cleaner. It took 10 minutes for 4oz. with littel effort to clean the blade
Baking Soda. It took 8 hours for 2oz. with little effort to clean the blade
Goof Off. It took 30 minutes for 3oz. Resin removed from flat surface but gullets didn't get clean.
CMT Blade and Bit Cleaner. It took 30 minutes for 3oz. Resin removed from flat surfaces but gullets wouldn't scrub clean.
They used a synthetic pad to clean the blades followed up with a brass brush if needed.
The Lestoil cleaned the blade in 5 minutes without scrubbing and it can be resued over and over again until it becomes cloudy. They recommend rinsing the blade in water then using a spray on rust inhibitor to prevent any corrosion from the water."
Read More...1 week ago