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i like your tables they are in keeping with the curent furniture trends. the legs are nice and big so they will be a bit heavy as well which means you will need to fasten them down good. i think if i were doing this i would try to make my table skirts a bit wider, that will give you more stability in the legs. i would agree that mortise and tennen is the best way, dowels will not be strong enough nor do i think floating tennens will be strong enough for this job. the only other thing to look at is iron hardware but im not sure what is out there in the market these days but look at lee valley they have some good hardware for these things.
very nice tables brownbookkate
Read More...14 hours 56 minutes ago
Hi Friends -
I'm new to wood working, and to this website but am thankful for all I've started to learn from Colin and the others on the forum. As a hobby I've started making tables; I made one from oak (like Home Depot quality), one from reclaimed lumber (pine) and one from reclaimed lumber, oak & poplar. With each of my tables, I'm running into a consistent problem; the legs are square/straight when I glue them, and I have used metal L brackets to attach them, but somehow, at the end of the project, I'm still getting legs that are not 100% square, either they're leaning inward or outward. It's quite frustrating - I've been suggested to try a mortise and tenon joint, which I have never done but I've watched a lot of videos on how to (using a chisel and a marking tool). Is this what most of you would recommend? I'd love any advice you can offer. I will also post some pics of my tables in case that's helpful.
Read More...19 hours 34 minutes ago
brownbookkat uploaded a new avatar19 hours 51 minutes ago
huevito71 uploaded a new avatar21 hours 53 minutes ago
LOL Hi Colin,
I re-sawed a scrap piece of 6/4" of Walnut this afternoon just to see what the cutting was like and it zipped right through it. S far, so good. I am waiting on some Purple Heart and Cherry to get here for cutting boards and once I get at processing the boards for them I will have the chance to test the saw again. LOL Oh the drama...
Your invitation to sharpen some of your saws is greatly appreciated and I know you are just trying expand my tool maintenance horizons but I must respectfully decline your offer. I'll leave it at that.
Read More...4 days ago
I'm just a beginner but really want to excel5 days ago
Colin replied to the topic 'Question AboutZero Clearance Inserts for Table Saw' in the forum.Hey ... no problem Kent, happy to help out. You know, it's great questions like this that helps other people learn too so never stop asking questions. We'll find an answer for your somewhere
Read More...6 days ago
cthusker uploaded a new avatar6 days ago
kentb created a new topic ' Question AboutZero Clearance Inserts for Table Saw' in the forum.I'm brand new to woodworking and just purchased my first table saw, it actually hasn't arrive yet but should be here any day. I plan on making a zero clearance insert for it but was wondering about something. Why aren't they standard issue when buying a new saw? It seems like everybody always talks about either purchasing or making one so why is it they all seem to come with a "standard" throat plate instead of a zero clearance plate? Thanks.
Read More...less than a minute ago
creddy uploaded a new avatar1 week ago
just as Colin said for the glue. The Elmers Glue is half the price of the 3M 77 and for your sand paper, I get all of mine from an Auto Parts Company. The higher grits, 320 to 3500 are 3M paper which is an excellent grade of sand paper. I'm going to guess that you want this for sharpening your chisels and plane irons and if so, this line of paper is very affordable and what I would recommend. I use the Scary Sharp process for all of my edged tools and I am extremely happy with the results.
Read More...2 weeks ago